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Ho riflettutto parecchio prima di raccontare la particolare esperienza vissuta una settimana fa. In pratica grazie ad alcuni amici e colleghi ho potuto assistere in parte allo svolgimento di una normale domenica di lotta dei galli. Il posto è nei pressi dell'aeroporto, anche se l'attività non è illegale non c'è alcuna indicazione o insegna. Si tratta di un enorme capannone, a destra dell'ingresso ci sono degli spazi recintati dove ogni gallo passa il tempo in attesa dei combattimenti mentre il suo staff ha a disposizione un tavolo per mangiare e bere Song-son. Sulla sinistra sono collocate una serie di piccole arene circolari, occupate a turno da combattimenti minori, dove pero' non manca pubblico e ovviamente giri di scommesse.
In fondo a destra una specie di breve corridoio conduce all'arena principale, circondata da alte gradinate in cemento, dove è collocato anche un timer che segna i minuti che mancano al prossimo incontro.
Quello che accade in questa arena viene anche proiettato su schermi collocati nel capannone. Quando abbiamo preso posto le gradinate erano praticamente vuote ma al momento dell'inizio dell'incontro eravamo quasi uno sull'altro. Nel corso dell'incontro la sensazione è quella di straniamento nel senso che tutti sembrano sapere e parlare un linguaggio che sono incapace di decifrare, l'unica cosa certa è che il loro linguaggio di segni è inerente alle scommesse, ma come comprendano chi scommette su quale gallo e quanto resta davvero indecifrabile. Ho pero' visto passare di mano decine di biglietti da mille bhat, quindi gli interessi in campo sono davvero alti, considerando che questi incontri si svolgono ogni domenica.
Gli incontri tra animali qui in Thailandia sono diffusi e sempre legati al mondo delle scommesse, oltre ai combattimenti dei galli, i thailandesi organizzano quelli tra bufali, scarafaggi e pesci. Questo per spiegare come sia parte della cultura locale sia assistere ai combattimenti tra animali sia scommettere cifre importanti, credo quindi importante darne testimonianza ma con non poche perplessità da parte mia che non riesco ad essere testimone neutra. Confesso che ci tenevo pero' ad assistere almeno una volta ad un incontro quasi come per una forma di tributo al grande antropologo Clifford Geertz che seppe leggere e interpretare i combattimenti dei galli a Bali.
ENGLISH VERSION
I thought a lot before I reported the particular experience I had a week ago. In practice, thanks to some friends and colleagues, I was able to watch a normal Sunday of cockfighting. The place is near the airport, even if the activity is not illegal there is no indication or sign. It is a huge shed, to the right of the entrance there are fenced spaces where each rooster spends his time waiting for the fights while his staff has a table to eat and drink Song-son. On the left are placed a series of small circular arenas, occupied in turn by minor fights, where, however, there is no lack of public and obviously rounds of betting.
At the bottom right a sort of short corridor leads to the main arena, surrounded by high concrete steps, where there is also a timer that marks the minutes until the next meeting.
What happens in this arena is also projected on screens located in the shed. When we took place the bleachers were practically empty but at the time of the beginning of the meeting we were almost on top of each other. In the course of the meeting the feeling is that of estrangement in the sense that everyone seems to know and speak a language that I am unable to decipher, the only thing certain is that their language of signs is inherent to betting, but how do they understand who bets on what cock and how much remains really indecipherable. But I've seen dozens of 1000 bhat banknotes pass by hand, so the interests in the field are really high, considering that these meetings take place every Sunday.
The matches between animals here in Thailand are widespread and always related to the world of betting, in addition to the fights of the roosters, the Thai organize those between buffaloes, cockroaches and fishes. This is to explain how it is part of the local culture both to watch the fights between animals and to bet important sums, so I think it is important to bear witness to it but with many perplexities on my part that I can not be a neutral witness. I confess that I wanted to attend at least once a meeting almost like a form of tribute to the great anthropologist Clifford Geertz who was able to read and interpret the cockfights in Bali.
ENGLISH VERSION
I thought a lot before I reported the particular experience I had a week ago. In practice, thanks to some friends and colleagues, I was able to watch a normal Sunday of cockfighting. The place is near the airport, even if the activity is not illegal there is no indication or sign. It is a huge shed, to the right of the entrance there are fenced spaces where each rooster spends his time waiting for the fights while his staff has a table to eat and drink Song-son. On the left are placed a series of small circular arenas, occupied in turn by minor fights, where, however, there is no lack of public and obviously rounds of betting.
At the bottom right a sort of short corridor leads to the main arena, surrounded by high concrete steps, where there is also a timer that marks the minutes until the next meeting.
What happens in this arena is also projected on screens located in the shed. When we took place the bleachers were practically empty but at the time of the beginning of the meeting we were almost on top of each other. In the course of the meeting the feeling is that of estrangement in the sense that everyone seems to know and speak a language that I am unable to decipher, the only thing certain is that their language of signs is inherent to betting, but how do they understand who bets on what cock and how much remains really indecipherable. But I've seen dozens of 1000 bhat banknotes pass by hand, so the interests in the field are really high, considering that these meetings take place every Sunday.
The matches between animals here in Thailand are widespread and always related to the world of betting, in addition to the fights of the roosters, the Thai organize those between buffaloes, cockroaches and fishes. This is to explain how it is part of the local culture both to watch the fights between animals and to bet important sums, so I think it is important to bear witness to it but with many perplexities on my part that I can not be a neutral witness. I confess that I wanted to attend at least once a meeting almost like a form of tribute to the great anthropologist Clifford Geertz who was able to read and interpret the cockfights in Bali.
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Non è mia intenzione censurare alcun tipo di commento che rispetti le norme del dibattito civile e rispettoso. Però è mio dovere ricordare che in Thailandia vige una legge sulla Lesa Maestà molto severa. Per tanto siete invitati ad evitare qualsiasi commento sui re presenti, passati e futuri, e anche su qualsiasi membro della famiglia reale.